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TeAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilisanon-profteducationalcorporationwhichrecognizesandpromotestheappreciationooriginaljewelrydesignasart.TeAJDCiscommittedtoraisingtheawarenessothejewelryindustrytheartcommunitythemediaandtheconsumerabouttheaestheticvalueoartisticfnejewelry.TemembersotheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilarededicatedtoelevatingthecaliberojewelrydesignthrougheducationalactivitiesandtochallengingproessionaljewelrydesignersworldwidetoactualizetheircreativepotential.COVERSPIRALbyPASCALLACROIXLEFTSPIRALbySCOTTKEATING OFFICIALSPONSORBENEFACTORSPONSORMyrnaandSheldonPalleyABOVEMONALISAbyGREGORMORINRIGHTTEARbyTODDREED2013AmericanJewelryDesignCouncilPOBox1149HermitagePA16148T724-979-4992www.ajdc.orgFirstpublishedinUnitedStatesofAmericain20132013AmericanJewelryDesignCouncilISBN978-0-9911642-0-2DesignedbyKatjaMaasDesign.PrintedinCanadabyFriesensCorporation.NopartofthispublicationmaybereproducedortransmittedinanyformbyanymeanselectronicmechanicalphotocopyingrecordingorotherwisewithoutpriorconsentfromthepublisherTheAJDC. VariationsonaTheme25YearsofDesignsfromtheAJDCSeptember212013-February222014TheForbesGalleries60FifthAvenueat12thStreetNewYorkNY10011 SPONSORSAmericanGemradeAssociationAGABonnieandGilbertSchwartzGanoksinGemologicalInstituteoAmericaGIAJewelersMutualMetalsmithMagazineMJSATeCoutureShowAnneStoneAnonymousArgenJewelryBillantiCastingCenturianMr.HowardHaubenLadyfngersQuadrumGalleryRapaportMagazineRiointoSharonKarmazinellurideGalleryimRoarkImportsGOLDSPONSORSDIAMONDSPONSORSWAVEbyALANREVERE PLATINUMSPONSORSAUEnterprisesCarreraCastingGoldsteinDiamondsScottsdaleAZMarianBurkeOttoFreiPlatinumGuildInternationalRevereAcademyoJewelryArtsRioGrandeRotasaFoundationMs.SusanCumminsoddReedInc.3rdWardJewelryAnonymousAPIntegoInsuranceGroupLLCAtelierMunsteinerArtisanDesignGalleryBeckyTatcherDesignsCarolSaundersDeNovoDorothySaxeDowneastradingCo.HoadleyGalleryJerrySzorContemporaryJewelryLorraineBresslerMediabilityJoanneDeRiccoShogunPearlSaraJaneDehofWendyJachmanSILVERSPONSORS byGeorgeSawyerEveryyearsince1995the35membersoftheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilhavebeenpresentedwithawordandanexhibitiondate.Ontheappointeddateeachmemberdeliversanoriginalpieceofjewelryartrepresentingtheirinterpretationofthewordtotheexhibitionvenueandthenextchapterintheannualseriesofexhibitionsisunveiled.AttheendoftheexhibitionthepiecesjointheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilCollection.Inthe18yearssinceitsconceptionthecollectionhasbecomeacomprehensivecomparisonofcreativeinterpretationbysomeofAmericasmostinuentialjewelryartistsayear-by-yearrecordofthedevelopmentoftheartistsstylesandanoverviewoftheevolutionofAmericanjewelrydesignduringoneofthemostcreativeperiodsinjewelryhistory.The25thanniversaryexhibitionconsistsofselectionsfromthiscollection.TheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilCollectionisreallythebestexpressionofwhatdrawsitsmemberstogether.Bychallengingeachothertocreatepiecesthattouchtheheartexcitetheimaginationandamazetheeyewehopetohelprestoretheconceptofjewelryasanartformtoencourageemergingdesignerswhowillinturncontributetotheevolutionoftheartandtostimulatethepublictolookalittledeeperanddiscoverthejoyofthisverypersonalartform.OriginsoftheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilMembersoftheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilarebothindividualstudioartistsandartistswithstudioworkshopsthathavemultipleemployees.MembershipinthegroupisbyinvitationeachmembermustowntheirownjewelrybusinessbeaUScitizenandoperatetheirbusinessintheUnitedStates.Theessentialqualicationofmembershipisthattheartistdesignerdesignsandproducesexceptionaljewelryoforiginalcreativedesignandhasanindividuallyidentiablestyleorartform.Whileitisnotaqualicationformembershipitcanalsobesaidthattheprimarydrivingforceofeachmemberisapassionformakinggreatjewelry.TheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilhasitsrootsinthemostsignicantjewelrymarketofthe1980sTheJewelersofAmericatradeshowinNewYorkCity.ThisshowwastheplacewheremostAmericanjewelrystoresdepartmentstoresandevensomegalleriesboughtlargeportionsoftheirinventoriesfortheupcomingyear.DuringthistimeperiodTHECOLLECBLACKWHITEbyJOHNIVERSEN8 withafewnotableexceptionstheAmericancommercialjewelryindustrywasdominatedbymanufacturerswhodidnotconsideroriginaldesigntobeevenaminorcomponentoftheproduct.Distinctivedesignandartisticcontentwereconsideredriskyandanirrelevantaddedexpense.Mostcommercialjewelrywasagenericproducttheresultofdecadesofcopiesandmodicationsofhistoricstyles.Beginningintheearly80sMortAbelsonthedirectoroftheJewelersofAmericaShowsawretailersbeginningtobuyincreasingamountsofdesign-forwardjewelryfromEuropeanmanufacturersespeciallyItalianmanufacturers.NotingthelackofAmericanartistsworkhebegantoactivelyseekoutAmericanjewelrydesignerstointroduceintothemainstreamattheJewelersofAmericashow.HescoutedartcraftfairsandexhibitionsandpersonallyinvitedjewelryartistsfromaroundtheUnitedStatestoexhibitinanewDesignCenter.HoweverwhenthedesignersarrivedatthenewDesignCentertheyfoundthemselvesintheworldslargestjewelrymarketplacebuttheirworkwaslargelyignoredandevenridiculedbythemainstreamcommercialmanufacturersandbuyers.DisappointedandconfusedbythisnegativereactionagroupofdesignersdecidedtoformanorganizationthatwouldtrytoawakenandexposethebuyersthemediaandthepublictotheworkofthebestAmericanartistdesignersadvancethecauseofartandoriginaldesigninjewelryandhelpnewdesignersgainrecognitioninthemarketplace.ThisgroupbecametheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncil.TheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilcurrentlyhas35dedicatedmembersandhasevolvedtoincludejewelryartistswhoareeducatorsandstudiojewelryartistsaswellasthosewhoparticipateinthecommercialmarketplaceallsharingthecommongoalofadvancingtheartofjewelrydesign.WewouldliketothanktheForbesGalleriesandallofthesupportingsponsorsofthisexhibitionfortheopportunitytosharethiscollectionwiththepublic.TION9 TheForbesGalleriesarepleasedtohostVariationsonaTheme25YearsofDesignfromtheAJDC.FormanyreasonsthisexhibitionisarstinthejewelrygalleryatForbes.MostimportantlywehavenevermountedanexhibitionofAmericancontemporaryjewelrywherethedesignerswerebroughttogethertofocusononeparticulartheme.Thisgroupofverytalentedjewelershasbeencreatingthemedprojectsforaquarterofacenturyandhavecompletedcloseto20concepts.Itisunusualtoviewagroupofjewelrythatspeakstooneideawhetheritsaninterpretationofwaterorwavefoldorcubeeachdesignercomestoitfromadierenttimeandplace.Themostintriguingpartistoseehowthedualityofagivenwordliketearortensionchangestheoutcomeofthepiece.DoestearrefertothedropofclearsaltyliquidfromtheeyeorisittheactofpullingsomethingintopiecesbyforceSomedesignersincorporatedbothwhileothersgravitatedtooneortheother.TheJewelryGalleryatForbeswashometonearly300piecesofFabergthelargestcollectionintheworldfrom1985to2004.WithexceptionofafewpiecesallweredestinedforasingleownersaleatSothebysinspring2004butweresoldpriortopublicauctionbyprivatetreatytoawealthybusinessmannamedViktorVekselberg.AlthoughsaddenedbythelossofthiscollectioneveryonewaspleasedthatitwouldreturntoRussia.OncethedustsettledtheForbesfamilyandtheircuratorialteamwereleftwithabeautifulgallerymeantforsmallobjectsandnothingtoexhibitinthem.AftermuchdiscussiontheFabergGallerywasrenamedtheJewelryGalleryandsince2005wehavemounted20exhibitions.ThegemsandjewelsshowcasedinthisgalleryhaverunthegamutintermsofthemeandtimeperiodMasterpiecesofAncientJewelryincludedpiecesmorethan7000yearsoldSteelTimeexaminedthehistoryof19thcenturygunmetalpocketwatchesandOutofthisWorldJewelryintheSpaceAgeexploredthehistoryofbeautifulwearableouterspace-relatedjewelry.EachexhibitionsincetheFabergcollectionhashadprettybigshoestollandthedesignersoftheAJDChavemetthechallengewithVariationsonaTheme.FOREWORDBLACKWHITEbyLINDAMACNEILPYRAMIDbyMICHAELGOODbyBonnieS.KirschsteinManagingDirectorTheForbesGalleriesNewYork10 Thedesigners Thecurrentunderstandingofthewordmasterpieceshowslittleevidenceofitsorigin.TobecomeamasterofatradeinthemedievalguildsofEuropeanapprenticewasrequiredtocreateaworkthatprovedhistechnicalunderstandingandability.Theclosestcontemporaryanalogytothissystemisthenalprojectforamastersdegree.Sincethisacademicprogramisbriefincomparisontomedievalapprenticeshipsthecomparisonishardlyapplicableyetthetermremainsinuse.Rarelyifeverdoesthehighpointofanartistsproductionfollowtheirinstructionandmentorship.Morefrequentlyittakesyearsofsolitarypracticepersonaldevelopmentandstylisticrenementtoestablishanauthenticviewpoint.Trialanderrorhopeanddenialandapersistentcommitmenttobecomebetterarenecessarystepstobeamodernmaster.ThemembersoftheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilhaveallearnedthisraredistinction.Jewelrysdepthasamodeofartisticexpressionispracticedbutitisntwidelyrecognizedorunderstood.Manufactureddesignsdominatethemarketleavingpieceshandfabricatedbyhighlyskilledjewelerslargelyunseenandtherebyunknown.Againsttheseoddstodaysjewelersareexperiencingunmatchedcreativefreedom.Justasneartisconstantlybeingredenedtoincludenewconceptsmaterialsandpresentationssotooiscontemporaryjewelry.Infusingdesignswithmeaningplayingwithnotionsofpreciousnessusingunconventionalmaterialsandeventestingthelimitsofwearabilityareideasthathavebeeninpracticeformorethan60yearsyetthereislittleevidenceofthismovementoutsideoftheeld.Oneiscompelledtoquestionwhatkeepsthisvanguardgoing.WithoutexceptionthemembersoftheAJDChavefoundsuccessbothinthejewelryindustryandamongtheirpeers.Theyhavecreatedworksofprofoundbeautyandtechnicalinnovationthathavegarneredastaggeringnumberofawardsfromtheeld.Butevenforthislevelofjeweleropportunitiestoimagineandrealizeone-of-a-kindcreationsfreefromcommercialconcernsarelimited.MoreoftenthannotthesegiftedentrepreneursspendmoretimerunningabusinessthancreatingaHIDDENTREASUREKEYbySTEVENKRETCHMERWATERBYGEORGESAWYERbyMartheLeVan13 ICEBYMICHAELGOOD14 masterpiece.TheAJDCdesignprojectreversestheseprioritiesifonlyforawhilelettingtheartcomerst.VariationsonaTheme25YearsofDesignfromtheAJDCfeaturesexamplesofthematicjewelryworksconceivedandfabricatedbycouncilmembersforexhibitiononly.ThisuniquegroupprojectisatourdeforceofnejewelerswhohavecontributedgreatlytoAmericasdesignhistory.Earlyexposuretotheartsortoafamilyjewelrybusinessstartedmanymembersontheirjourney.MarkSchneiderisathird-generationjewelerandRonHartgrovesfatherwasawatchmaker.ThemothersofJaneBohanSarahGrahamandToddReedwereallartists.Somebeganfarfromjewelrybutwhenworkingwithmetalforthersttimeinartschoolorbychancetheirlivestookadecisiveturn.AquarteroftheAJDCmemberswerebornoutsideofUnitedStatesandtrainedinEuropeangoldsmithingprograms.SeveralAmericanjewelerstrainedabroadinGermanyandItalybeforereturningtoworkinthestates.Regardlesswhatguidedthesetalentstojewelryitistheirpassionateattractiontoinvestigatingandsculptingpreciousmetalthatunitesthemandavigorouscuriosityandambitionthathasdriventhemtothetop.15 OutstandingmaterialinnovationsandtechnicaladvancementsbyseveralAJDCjewelershavebeensignicantenoughtoimpactjewelryhistory.StevenKretchmercontributednewtonesofgoldandthetensionmethodofstonesettingtothejewelersrepertoire.GeorgeSawyersdevelopmentsinmulticoloredpatternedmetalssetanewstandardforexcellence.Itisinterestingtoseemembersadaptsuchdeningelementsacrossavarietyofthemesorattimesabandonthemaltogether.MichaelGooduseshissignaturetechniqueofanticlasticraisingineveryprojectyetheappliesitwithastonishingdesigndiversity.GoodsPyramidRingshowstheclassicbrawnofanticlasticraisingwhileIceandSpiralexemplifyitscapacityforgrace.BothKentRaibleandCorneliaGoldsmitharevirtuososofgranulationyettheyputittouseinsurprisinglydierentways.RaibletakesfulladvantageofitsdecorativeopulenceinCapturedUniverseRingwhileGoldsmithusesgranulationtoadvanceanarrativeinFlightandWave.BeyonditspresentationofmasterfuldesignsVariationsonaThemerevealsapowerfulthoughneglectedpropertyofjewelryitsabilitytotellstories.Whethernounorverbthetopicofthedesignprojectchallengesjewelerstounleashtheirimaginationsandgeneratearesponse.Thesesinglewordsareclearlychosenwithconsiderablecaretoinspiremanymeanings.GregorMorinsfocusongurativejewelrymakeshimanaturalstoryteller.UndertheSeahiscompositionforWaterisamarvelousanddeeplymeaningfultableau.Setatopastoneslabtheearringssuggestunderwaterpylonsandsignalacrossroadsofindustryandnature.SimilarlyAdamNeeleysPolarIcePendantpaintstheperilsofglobalwarmingyethisexpressionissoabstractBLACKWHITEbyRONHARTGROVEEXPLOSIONbyTODDREED16 andinconspicuousonemightmissitsmeaningwithoutknowingthetitle.ProvocativeinadierentmannerAnthonyLentsInvisibleRubyLoveNecklaceforPeekaboourgestheviewertospeculatejustwhatisgoingonunderthatcrimsonshade.In2011BlackandWhiteraisedthestakesofthedesignprojectbyrequiringtheuseofanunconventionaljewelrymaterial.Eachdesignerreceivedblocksofpoly-celluloidplastic.Thisdecidedlynon-preciousmaterialmusthavebeenquiteasurpriseandquiteatestforthemosttraditionaljewelryartists.TheconsistentvisualelementofBlackandWhiteprovidesasteadyviewpointfromwhichtoreectontheAJDCmemberprojectsasawhole.Thetechnicalanddesignprowessoneexpectsfromthenestnejewelersisundeniablypresent.WitnessitinthebrillianceofLindaMacNeilsNeckCollarthepoiseofRonHartgrovesnecklaceandtheperfectionofGeoreyGilessring.ListenalittlemorecloselyandyoumighthearmusicinJenniferRabescurveofdiamonds.OpenyourheartandyoumightrecallthesweetsentimentofJohnIversensJax.Todosoistoknowjewelryspoetrytodeeplyconnectwiththesoulofthecreatorandtotrulyexperienceamasterpiece.Toestablishawell-informedpublicconstanteortisrequiredbythosewhocherishjewelryart.Theneedforadvocationeducationexposureandsupportisever-present.TheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilworkstirelesslytoadvancetherecognitionofnejewelryartistsandthroughtheirannualdesignprojectsitinspiresthemtoreachevenfurther.TheextraordinarymomentsofbreathtakingbeautyexhibitedinVariationsonaTheme25YearsofDesignfromtheAJDCareatestamenttotheseeortsandtothetranscendentspiritofjewelry.ICEbyPETRACLASSTEARbyJOSHESS17 StevenKRETCHMER1953-2006StevenKretchmerbestknownforinventingnejewelrythatbehavedinmysteriouswaysdiedonJuly82006.Hewas52.HisTension-Setjewelryappliesapermanentlymagneticplatinumalloytosuspendpreciousstonesinspacebetweentensionringstherebyexposingmorelighttostonesthanatraditionalsetting.JewelryfromhisPolariumcollectionforexamplefeaturesjeweleddiscsthatareinvisiblyheldinvariouspositionsbymagnetism.Thedisksbouncewithbodymovementbutalwaysreturntotheiroriginalposition.Kretchmeralsoinventedmulticoloredlayeredgoldcombinationsof18kblueandpurplegoldandgoldmokume-gane.HeearnedartdegreesfromRISDandtheUniversityofMichiganandistherecipientofinnovationawardsinthejewelryeld.KretchmersstepdaughterClaudiatookleaveofherPhDinAstrophysicstocontinuethecompanybuiltbyKretchmerandhiswifeAlmawhereClaudiaputsherscienticbackgroundtocreativeuse.InmemoriamDESIGNERS18 SandyBAKERisrecognizedbyNationalJewelermagazineasoneofthetop100jewelrydesignersinthelast30years.Sincethelate60sBakerhascarvedadistinctivenicheinthejewelryindustry.HerboldvariationsofsignatureearringsnecklacespinsandbraceletsreectheryearsoftrainingintheneartsatHunterCollegeandColumbiaUniversity.WhenIminspireditsmymissiontore-createthesoundtheideaorfeelinginapieceofwearableartbeitchopsticksagustofairoroceanwater.Bakerisatrendsetterincreatingdesignsformodernwomenslifestyles.JaneBOHANAfterstudyingmetalsmithingandjewelryatRISDandworkingatthebenchinajewelerstoreJaneopenedherownworkshopin1983inSoHoNewYorkCity.Janessignatureisdetailedpatternssuchasalligatorskinpebblegraincenturies-oldpaisleysandirtyoralsinpreciousmetals.Hermeticulousselectionofgemstonesandpearlsisevidentineachpieceofjewelryaswellasherloveofcolorarchitecturenatureandfashion.Herworkhasbeenexhibitedinmuseumsandartgalleriesandcanbefoundinnejewelrystoresacrossthecountry.WhitneyBOINisdriventocreatejewelrythatpresentssomethingbeyondthetraditionalstoneinasetting.Iwantalookthatisclassicalbutwiththeengineeringandfeelthatrepresentwhatisgoingontoday.Hisaward-winningoriginaldesignsforengagementringsdiamondnecklacesandpearlbraceletshavepropelledhimtointernationalacclaim.Jewelrydiersfromsculptureinthatitswornonthebody.Themotionofthebodyisasimportantasthematerialshowtheyaresethowtheyrepolished.Allcontributetohowthepiecemovesvisually.In1999BoinfoundedtheInternationalJewelryDesignGuildandisafoundingmemberoftheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncil.MichaelBONDANZAInspiredbytheworkofGeorgJensenandtheearlyworkofCartierBondanzascareerbeganintheearly70s.Ittakesatleasttenyearstogetgroundedtogainenoughskillandexperiencetobegintotacklesomethingwithrealmeaning.Hispersonalvisionimaginativeconceptsandinnovativedesignsattractdistinguishedretailersinnejewelry.Bondanzaexperimentedwithsterlingsilver18kgoldandrosewoodbeforeeventuallyworkingwithcomplexcombinationsofplatinumand18kgold.MichaelregisteredhistrademarkPlatinumRedenedandcontinuestopushcreativeusesofplatinum.PetraCLASSTrainedasasilversmithinGermanyherapproachtojewelrymakingisinformedbytheEuropeantraditionofappliedart.Sheworkswithmaterialstraditionallyperceivedasprecious.IfeelIcanthroughmychoiceofcolorsandtexturescommunicateacertainmoodanattitudetowardslifethatinturnwillbeIhopesensedbywhoeverislookingatthepiece.Likeinimprovisationaljazzmelodyorabstractlandscapewendreoccurringrhythmicalarrangementsrepetitionofformunexpectedcontrastsofdierenttexturedmaterials.Iamendlesslyfascinatedwithgemstonesbytheirwealthoftonescolorsopacities.Onecanalmostpaintwiththesestones.JaclynDAVIDSONMyworkhasundergonearadicalchangesinceIhavebegunworkingwithmildsteelWhilestartingasteel-fabricatingshopJaclynbecamesointriguedbysteelsheneverlookedbacktowardgold.SteelconveysunyieldingcoldstrengthbutwhenheatedtoradiantyellowitbecomesaspliableasbreaddoughWhenIamworkingmyentirebodyisinvolvedmovingtoandfromtheforgegatheringtoolsandquenchinginbetweenheatsOnceyoulearnthatthemomenttostrikeiswhenitsthatparticularcolorthenyoustarthavingfun.ThatwindowofwhentostrikeisaveryshortperiodoftimeIlearnedtoadaptmydesignplanswhenhotsteelisrevealingnewfacetsofitspersonalityandcelebratetheevidenceoftheforgingprocessinthenishedobject.FalcherFUSAGERBornandraisedinDenmarkasateenagerFusagerpaintedusingtraditionaloilglazingtechniques.HisfondnessoftransparentenamelsandtheirextraordinarylightandcolorcombinationsledhimtoformagroupwithtwoartiststospecializeinusingtheancientEgyptiancloisonntechnique.WhenhisbusinessexpandedFusagerformedthecompanyMagickin1985.Hedrawsfreehandbeforebuildinguplayersofenamelinthesamewayheglazedoilpaintings.Duringtheearly90sheexploredtheimpactshapesandcolorshaveonouremotionalstateswhichgavebirthtohisabstractnaturescenespredominantinrecentcollections.GeoreyGILESfashionedjewelryinhighschool.HeapprenticedwithtwomastergoldsmithsattendedVirginiaCommonwealthsDepartmentofCraftsandworkedforthreeyearsasabenchjewelerbeforeworkingasanindependentdesignerandgoldsmith.Gilesfabricateswithoutoutsidehelpandworkswith18kgold.Hisaestheticisoftendescribedasaminimalistcombinationofboldgeometrycleanlinesandsurfacedetailing.Gilesuses100reclaimedandrecycledmetalsandiscommittedtousingenvironmentallyfriendlyprocessesandmaterials.19 CorneliaGOLDSMITHrememberstimelesssummersspentscouringthebeachesoftheBalticSeaonthelookoutforpiecesofgoldenamberamongstthesandandrocks.Balticamberalongwithothertreasuresendedupinherrstcreationsofearringsandbracelets.GrowingupinBerlinGoldsmithlatermovedtoBostonwhereshetookjewelryclassesatMassachusettsCollegeofArtandNorthBennettStreetSchool.Shelearnedavarietyoflabor-intensetechniquesincludingancientgranulationwhichbecamehersignaturelook.Goldsmithsdesignsexpresshervisionofthenaturalworldthroughnedetailandexactingcraftsmanship.RonHARTGROVEservedintheUnitedStatesAirForcebeforeheearnedaBAinarthistoryandpainting.HegrewupinTexasworkingwithhisfatherawatchmakersolderingcharmsdisassemblingwatchesandsizingrings.AftercollegeHartgrovespaintingsgainedrecognitionatimewhenhealsoworkedatjewelrycompaniesdoingrepairanddesignwork.Intimehisfocusshiftedtojewelrymakingexclusivelyandheformedamanufacturingbusinesstocreateone-of-a-kinddesigns.HistrademarklineOrbisfeaturesstonespheresinterchangeablewithoutmechanismsorhingesaconceptthatgrewoutofachildhoodfascinationwithballpointpens.MichaelGOODbornofBelgianparentsgrewuplivingbetweentheUSandEurope.Duringthe50sGoodworkedwithasculptorinNewYorkCitywhotaughthimrudimentarymetalsmithing.EvenwhenheloggedandclammedtomakealivinginnortheastMaineGooddidnotstopmetalsmithing.TuckedawayinbeautifulandsecludedpocketsofthevastAmericanlandscapearegoldsmithswhoseworkrivalsthebestsaysEttagaleBlauer.AmongthemisMichaelGoodwhoseuseofwhathecallstheanticlasticprocesshasforcedthecommercialjewelryworldtoexpanditsideasabouthowAmericanjewelryshouldlookandhowitcanbemade.BarbaraHEINRICHwasborninHeilbronnGermanyandgrewupinthevineyardsofherfamilyswinery.Tokeepherselfbusyshesaysshecollecteddriednoodlespodssnailshellsandbrokenglasswhichshestrungtogethertocreatejewelry.HeinrichgraduatedfromtheJewelryAcademyinPforzheimandwonascholarshiptostudyintheUS.SheearnedaMFAfromRochesterInstituteofTechnologyafterwhichsheestablishedastudio.Thereshecreateddistinctiveandawardwinningjewelrypiecesbyblendingtimelessaestheticswithcontemporaryideas.Herstyleisunderstatedyetrecognizable.Sheisknownforhersoftbrushedgoldsurfacesjuxtaposedwithburnishedlinesandsurfacesetgemstones.SarahGRAHAMearnedaBAininternationalbusiness.Onedayshedesignedabraceletforhersister.Soentrancedbythebeautyoftheprocessshedecidedtomakejewelryherlife.Grahamworkedinajewelryretailstoreapprenticedunderamastergoldsmithtraveledtondinspirationinmuseumsgalleriesandstoresthenworkedfull-timeasabenchjeweler.In2000shestartedherownjewelrybusinesspassionatetocombineamazingretailexperiencewithjewelrydesignexcellence.GrahamworkswithJacarandaPodsanddecayedwoodorwaxtogiveherdesignsspecialtextures.Sheoftenjuxtaposesmatteblacknishwith18kyellowroseorwhitegoldandcoloreddiamonds.SusanHELMICHsdesignsbeginwithaquesttondperfectgems.ShemaytravelasfarastheSouthSeasEuropeorAsiabutoncefoundthepreciousjewelsbecomefocalpointsinherdesignswhichshepainstakinglymatchestosuitanindividualstaste.AstheLosAngelesnativeexplainsIconsidermyselfanartistandtechniciancompelledtocommunicatewiththeviewerhopingtoevokeapersonalandemotionalresponse.ArtisapowerfullanguagethatspeakstothesoulandIhopetoinitiatecuriosityanddialoguethroughmywork.AlishanHALEBIANtaughthimselfhowtogoldsmithandhemasteredtheart.Thinkingofhisjewelryasminiaturesculpturehegivespreciousmetalsseemingweightlessnessandluxurioustexture.BornandeducatedinArmeniaHalebianmovedtotheUSin1970.HisworkreectsacombinationofEastandWestcultureandphilosophyandhasbeenwornbyElizabethTaylorandNatalieColeamongotherredcarpetguests.JosHESScreatesbrandedcollections.Hiscompanyaimstocombineeleganceandsimplicitywithafuturisticapproach.Theingredientsarelogicharmonyandsentiment.Atage13HessapprenticedmasterViennesejewelers.AfterservinginthearmyheworkedforrenowneddesignerDavidWebbbeforemanufacturingandsellinghisowndesigns.AjewelrydesignteacherattheFashionInstituteofTechnologyHessalsoworksasaconsultanttoimprovedesignandmanufacturingmethodsatnationalandinternationaljewelrycompanies.HeistherstAmericanpresidentofCIBJOaninternationaltradeassociationfortheestablishmentofworldwidejewelryindustrystandards.20 CornelisHOLLANDERfromtheNetherlandsstudiedartandjewelrydesignatVrijeAcadmieinDenHaagandAmsterdam.AdventurecalledyoungHollandertoJohannesburgSouthAfricathediamondandgoldcapitaloftheworldwhereheopenedhisownjewelrydesignstudio.YearslaterhemovedtoPhoenixArizonaandfoundedCornelisHollanderDesignsInc.Jewelrydesignheexplainsislikepoetry.Whenapoetseesbeautifulsceneryapoemowsintohismind.JustbylookingatabeautifulgemstoneIenvisionthenishedpiece.JohnIVERSENoriginallyfromHamburgGermanyusesatechniquedevelopedinthe18thcenturycalledNatureCastingtomakerepresentationsofnaturalobjectsinbronzesilverandgold.Hisworkhasbeenshownthroughouttheworldinmanyinuentialgalleriesandmuseums.Iversenslife-longinspirationcomesfromnaturalworldspecimensaswellasthemetalsheuses.Inleavesowerspebblesbasketsseedsandwatersubtletexturesanddistinctivequalitiesareexpressed.Eachveininhishydrangeasisnelyworkedtheedgesofhisleafpinsripplelikeanactualdriedleaf.AllofmyjewelryisaboutthesecretwhichlieshiddeninthematerialsIuse.Itwantstobediscovered.ScottKEATINGstudieddesignandengineeringattheUniversityofIllinoisunderthelatemastergoldsmithRobertVonNeuman.KeatingsdesignsareproportionedusingdimensionalrelationshipsfoundinnatureoftenreferredtoasSacredGeometrybyRenaissanceartists.WorkingwithdiamondskaratgoldplatinumandcoloredgemstonesincludingtourmalinecitrineandamethystKeatingdesignednewcutsforgemstonessuchashistrademarkTurretbar-cut.TheSummitCollectionisKeatingsbreakthroughlinefeaturingcabochonturretcutsandtinyperfectlinesofblackenamel.HisgoldmeshishandwovenrecallingclassicwatchbandsoftheDecoera.ChristoKIFFERindependentdesignergoldsmithandforemoststonesettermakesjewelrylikearchitecturewithreectivelightintensecontemporaryandtimeless.BorninMinasaGeraisBrazilsurroundedbymineralscrystalsandgemstoneshetaughthimselftomakejewelrywithnoformaltraining.Idecidedtofusemypassionforarchitectureandconstructiontechniqueswithmyobsessiveattentiontodetailinanartformwhosescaleprovidedmecompletecontroloverallprocesses.Kiercreatesnewtechniquestofulllhisartisticvisionandaestheticsignature.MyFloatingChannelsettingbaptizedmyaestheticvisionintoarealityneverbeforepossible.PaulKLECKAndsinspirationinboundariesimposedbythehumanformonjewelrydesign.WithhisngeronthepulseofthejewelryarenaKleckasjewelrydesignrmfocusesonlifestyleconcepts.Startingoutinjewelryretailsalespositionshelpedhimunderstandcustomerneedsandexpectations.Learningaboutwhatresonateswiththeenduserinuenceshisdesignapproach.Kleckarealizedhisdreamtoownaretailgalleryhimselfin1982whenhebegantopresenthisownimaginativetechnicallyinnovativework.TodayKleckaembracesCADCAMdigitaldesignandfabricationprocesses.AnthonyLENTtrainedasagoldsmithinGermany.DuringthistimeinEuropehedevelopedmotifsthatdominatehisworkincludingsculpturalguresanimalscelestialfacesandinterpretationsoffabledcreatures.Lentpursuedthefascinatingworldofautomatatocreatemagicalintricatelybuiltpiecesthatdelightandbeguiletheeyeandmind.HisPhiladelphia-basedworkshopshowcasesjewelrydesignsandtechnologiesatoncemodernandantique.PascalLACROIXborninBrusselsandraisedinthesouthofFrancetookinspirationfromhisfatherssculptureandjewelrydesigns.Lacroixseeshisownone-of-a-kindjewelrypiecesassilentcompanions.Knownforinnovativeworkingoldanddiamondbraceletshisworkhassymbolicmeaning.OfhisbraceletsCynthiaSchuetzsaysEncirclingourarmstheydenoteconnectedness.Withoutbeginningorendtheyrepresentinnity.Ascirclesdelityeternalmovementandcommitment.LindaMACNEILwhenjustateenagerbeganhercareerasametalsmith.ShestudiedatPhiladelphiaCollegeofArtandreceivedherBFAfromRhodeIslandSchoolofDesignin1976.Althoughshehasworkedinvariousformatsincludingsculpturewindowsandarchitecturalinstallationsjewelryhasbeenthemainstayofhercareer.MacNeilappliesaloveofglassandmetaltechnicalprecisionandclarityofformtoherjewelrywhilemeetingthechallengeofitswearability.Hercreationsareallone-of-a-kindandfavoritescanbefoundinbothprivateandmuseumcollectionsincludingtheMETMFABostonVAandtheSmithsonian.21 GregorMORINbelievesjewelryshouldbemorethanjustabigstoneandshouldspeaktosomethinginthewearer.LearningtogoldsmithatanearlyageMorinsaysImaketheworkbecauseIhavetobutitisnotreallymine.EverypieceImakeneedstohaveanownertonishit.BornandraisedinVancouverCanadaMorinsdistinctiveplayfuldesignsarefabricatedinlimitededitionsusingtraditionaltechniquesandareverypopularincelebritycollectionsandfavoritemuseums.AdamNEELEYoftencollectedrocksinColoradosbackcountrywhenhewasaboy.Attwelvehetaughthimselfrudimentarygemstonecuttingandsilversmithing.WhenNeelystudiedattheGemologicalInstituteofAmericathecurriculumrequiredhimtoidentify1400gemstonesandgradediamonds.AtLeArtiOrafeinFlorenceItalyandtheFashionInstituteofTechnologyinNewYorkCityNeelyrenedhisjewelrydesignandfabricationskillsandappliedcomputeraideddesign.Eachcreationisasmallsculpturewithitsownintrinsicnarrative.MarkPATTERSONacertiedgemologisttravelstheworldtoselectstonesofsuperiorcutandbrilliance.Histruelovethecolorofstoneshebuildsadesignaroundeachgemcreatingone-of-a-kindringsnecklacesandearrings.CollaboratingasahusbandandwifeteamMarkandJosettePattersoncelebrate25yearsinbusiness.MarksaysofJosetteMytrainingasajewelergavemetheskillsIneededtoimplementthedesignbutJosettehadthevision.Asadesignersculptorandpaintershehasanartisticeyethathashelpeddeneourcreations.JenniferRABEMORINraisedinSpainbyartistparentsnativetoGermanywastrainedinjewelryfabricationsettingengravingandgoldsmithing.ShestudiedattheUniversityofCaliforniaSantaCruzSirJohnCassCollegeinLondonandatCaliforniaStateUniversityLongBeach.Sheworkscloselywithclientstocreatepiecesingoldandplatinumwithgemstones.Theartofjewelryisapersonalintimateexperiencethattouchesothersthroughitsexpressionofuniversalvalues.Mygoalistocreatebeautifulformswithrarematerialstoinspirewonderandjoyintheviewer.KentRAIBLErstworkedwithmetalinahighschoolclass.Largelyself-taughtandworkingalonehedevelopedauniquestyleoffabricationwhilelivinginGermanyduringthe80s.AcquiringaspecialgemrespondingtoitslightandformbyvisualizingforitauniquegoldenenvironmentandreningandrealizingthatvisiongivesRaiblegreatsatisfaction.Itrytondharmonyineventheminuteststepoftheprocesswhetheritsthepositioningofasinglegranuleorshavingoatenthofamillimeterofgoldtogetaperfectline.Thisisthefoundationandintegrityofmyart.RiablesworkisinthepermanentcollectionattheSmithsonian.ToddREEDenormouslyimpressedbyagoodfriendsferventloveofdiamondsdevelopedafascinationwithjewelry.Hecompletelytookmeunderhiswing.Hislovefordiamondswasinfectiousandheshowedmetheartistryandminiaturesculpturethatappearedintheroughstones.Iwasrivetedandwantedtoknowandseemore.AfterdesigningfurnitureclothingsculptingpaintingandgraduatingfromculinaryschoolReedself-trainedasagoldsmithandjeweler.NowpushingtheboundariesofwhatweconsidertobepreciouspiecesReedsdesireistomergetheallureofnejewelrywithartisticexpression.HisBoulderColoradoorganizationincludes16masterjewelerscreatingdesignsbyReedin18kgoldplatinumpalladiumandsilver.PaulROBILOTTImakessmall-scaleinterpretationsofarchitecturaltriumphs.DrawntoGreekandRomangrandeurheadaptselementsoftheClassicalperiodsuchasrichdetailandabundanttexturetofabricatein18kgoldplatinumandpreciousandsemi-preciousstones.IsubscribetoclassicalideologyfoundationsStructurebecomesformtexturearticulatessignicantdetailwhilelibertiesofaestheticpreferencecreateromance.RobilottiisthesonofanarchitectandstudiedattheFashionInstituteofTechnologyandNewYorkUniversity.AlanREVEREisamastergoldsmithjewelrydesignerandjewelryeducator.ThefounderanddirectorofRevereAcademyofJewelryArtsinSanFranciscohehastrainedover10000students.Revereauthoredinstructionalbooksarticlesandvideotapesforgoldsmithsandjewelers.WithdegreesinpsychologyandartReveretrainedinGermanyasagoldsmith.Hehascreatedasignaturelineofjewelrysoldinstoresforover20years.HisworkisincludedinpermanentcollectionsattheSchmuckmuseumPforzheimandtheOaklandMuseum.AlanisfounderoftheContemporaryJewelryDesignGroupandpastpresidentofAJDC.22 SusanSADLERsmottoisThesimplerthebetter.Havingavastknowledgeofgemstonesandpearlssheframesthesebeautifulgiftsofnatureusing18kyellowgoldorplatinum.MerginglittlenaturaltreasureswithbeautifulcolorSadlerworkswithmemorablevintagematerialsandBakelite.Sheaddssubtletexturestogivedepthandsoftnesstoherpieces.Herlatestcollectionsexplorehernewfoundinterestincombiningcolorandmovementofjewels.Thepossibilitiesarelimitless.TinaSEGALhaslongworkedtofurthergrowthofwomenintheindustry.Segalcreatesjewelryasastatementforeachwomanwhowearsherwork.AsIdesignwhatIhaveinmindiscreatingapieceofjewelrythatreectswhatthewomanwearingitwouldwanttosayaboutherself.WithagoodbusinesssenseandalotofhardworkSegaldesignsspecial-orderjewelry.Hermaterialpaletteincludeswhatshecallsgemstonesinanopticaleldwherebystonesareplacedaboveandundereachotherandbeadednecklacesofmixedusualmaterials.GeorgeSAWYERstudiedarthistoryandsculptureattheUniversityofMinnesotaandisfascinatedbyAsianart.WorkingataracecardesignandbuildcompanySawyerhonedhisdesignandmetalworkingskills.Atnighthestudiedjewelry.Exploringatechniquetocreatepatternsfromcoloredgoldalloysandpreciousmetalshedevelopedasignaturelineofjewelryrangingfromweddingringstoartobjects.For40yearsSawyerhasfoldedandforgedpreciousmetalsintopatternsthatsuggestwoodgrainswirlingwaterandancientmysteriousimpressionisticformspopularinmuseumsandgalleriesintheUSCanadaandEurope.MarkSCHNEIDERrememberscovetingagemstonecollectionwhenhewasjustingradeschool.Nowathird-generationjeweleratCaliforniaStateUniversityLongBeachhestudiedjewelrydesignandenjoyedworkingwithclayandmetal.Hefeelsfortunatetoworkwiththenestraregemstones.AjewelersjewelerSchneiderisoneoffewlivingdesignerstohaveapieceonpermanentdisplayintheSmithsonianInstitutionGemandMineralHall.Heiscommittedtoeverypartofthedesignandfabricationprocessandchallengeshimselftomakeuniqueanddistinguishablework.TakashiWADAwasborninTianjinChinatoJapaneseparents.HegraduatedfromTokyoUniversityoftheArtsandTylerSchoolofFineArtsatTempleUniversityPhiladelphia.A1987NewYorkTimesarticlehighlightsthespiritualcomfortofhisworkthewayancientadornmentheldtalismanicpowersWadaobservesthatclientssimplyndhisjewelryreassuringtothetouch.ThatswhytheyrealwayshandlingcertainpiecesthewayamanmighthandlethebowlofhispipeWadatellsofapatronwhopurchasedhisegg-shapedsilverpendantfollowingherdivorce.Forheritbecameacomfort.Sheneverremovedit.Yearslatershereturnedtoboastthatshehadawonderfulnewhusband.IllkeepyoursilvereggshesaidbutnowIcanbuyoneingold.RuthLaFerlaWilliamSCHRAFThelpeddenethelookofAmericanunderstateddesignerjewelrythroughthe80sintothe90s.SchraftfoundnewinterestinretrostylesinspiredbyornateEuropeanirongatesandwindowsandintricatewoodworkinVictorianscrollsfurnitureandhomes.Heblendedhisstraightmoderndesignbackgroundwithnowpopularvintagestyles.InlaidVictorianligreebringsantiquecontrasttohisboldmodernpolishedframeworkajuxtapositionofstylesfromyesterdayandtoday.BarbaraWESTWOODisknownforfashionforwardmetalworkanduseofboldgemstones.Myworkisavehicletoconnectwithotherhumanbeings...Imakesymbolsthatmarkourfeelings.WestwoodstudiedjewelrydesignandmetalsmithingatUniversityofCalifornia.SheisafoundingmemberoftheWomensJewelryAssociation.30yearsagotheideaofawomanbecomingadesignerletaloneasuccessfulonewasunheardof.Iapplaudtheindustryvisionarieswhorstsawthepotentialofdesignerjewelrywithouttheseparationofgender.ThisbusinesshasbeenthevehiclethatIhaveusedtorealizemydreamofanintimateandcreativebusinesswhereIcouldinspireandbeinspired.DianaVINCENTapproachesdesignwiththerhythmandmovementofadancer.AftershegraduatedfromTylerSchoolofArtinPhiladelphiaDianaVincentwasveryquicklyrecognizedasoneofAmericasmostcreativeandoriginaljewelrydesigners.LaunchinghercareerastheyoungestAmericantoreceivetwoconsecutiveDeBeersDiamondsInternationalAwardsDianasworkremainshighlydesiredbycollectorsaroundtheworld.WithherintuitivesensefordesignandimmediatelyrecognizablestyleDianatirelesslystrivesfordesignexcellencewithanallureofsimplisticsophistication.23 UPCLOSEAND...LOUPEVIEWSDefnitionaloupeisasmallmagniferusedespeciallybyjewelersandwatchmakers.24PUZZLEbySCOTTKEATING PORTFOLIOSOnceyouarecaptivatedbytheimaginationofanartistyouinevitablywanttoseeandlearnmore.Eachofthedesignerswhoseworkyouhaveseeninthisbookfeaturestheircurrentworksandlatestcollectionsontheirindividualwebsites.Allarelistedopposite66 BAKERSandyhttpsandybakerjewelrycomBOHANJanehttpjanebohancomBOINWhitneyhttpwhitneyboincomBONDANZAMichaelhttpmichaelbondanzacomCLASSPetrahttppetraclassnetDAVIDSONJaclynhttpjaclyndavidsoncomFUSAGERFalcherhttpitsmagickcomGILESGeofreyhttpgeofreydgilescomGOLDSMITHCorneliahttpcorneliagoldsmithcomGOODMichaelhttpmichaelgoodcomGRAHAMSarahhttpsarahgrahamcomHALEBIANAlishanhttpalishanonlinecomHARTGROVERonhttporbisjewelrycomHEINRICHBarbarahttpbarbaraheinrichstudiocomHELMICHSusanhttpsusanhelmichcomHESSJoshttpjosehesscomHOLLANDERCornelishttpcornelishollandercomIVERSENJohnhttpjohniversencomKEATINGScotthttpscottkeatingcomKIFFERChristohttpchristokifercomKLECKAPaulhttppaulkleckacomKRETCHMERStevenhttpstevenkretchmercomLACROIXPascalhttppascallacroixcomLENTAnthonyhttpanthonylentcomMACNEILLindahttplindamacneilcomMORINGregorhttpgregorejoaillierscomNEELEYAdamhttpadamneeleycomPATTERSONMarkhttpmarkpattersoncomRABEMORINJennierhttpjennierjoaillierscomRAIBLEKenthttpkentraiblecomROBILOTTIPaulhttppaulrobilotticomREEDToddhttptoddreedcomREVEREAlanhttprevereacademycomSADLERSusanhttpsusansadlercomSAWYERGeorgehttpgeorgesawyercomSCHNEIDERMarkhttpmarkschneiderdesigncomSCHRAFTWilliamhttpwilliamschratcomSEGALTinahttptinasegalcomVINCENTDianahttpdianavincentcomWADATakashiWESTWOODBarbarahttpbarbarawestwoodcomSPIRALbyDIANAVINCENT67 EXHIBITIONMORINVINCENTKEATINGSEGALKEATINGKRETCHMERWESTWOODBOHANBAKERROBILOTTIKLECKABOINSAWYERBOINLENTBONDANZASEGALDAVIDSONMORINHESSWESTWOODGOLDSMITHROBILOTTIKRETCHMERKLECKASADLERREEDWADABAKER95980001029697monalisakeywaterfightpeekaboocubewheel68 ROBILOTTIGOODLACROIXSCHRAFTWESTWOODHELMICHLENTIVERSENRABEMORINBONDANZABONDANZAMORINREVEREHARTGROVEHARTGROVEREEDSADLERHEINRICHHELMICHROBILOTTIVINCENTIVERSENHOLLANDERSAWYERWESTWOODKEATINGIVERSENGOLDSMITHSADLERKRETCHMERSAWYERSCHRAFTSEGAL9903puzzlefoldtimelineofthemesandvariations69 SADLERREVEREROBILOTTISCHNEIDERKEATINGNEELEYSEGALLACROIXRIABLEBONDANZAMACNEILREVEREBAKERKIFFERPATTERSONSCHRAFTFUSAGERLACROIXRABEMORINGOODNEELEYRIABLEGOLDSMITHHALEBIANRIABLEGOODSAWYERSCHNEIDERVINCENTFUSAGER05080904pyramidtensionexplosionsphere06secrettreasureEXHIBITION70 HEINRICHSAWYERBONDANZAHARTGROVEHESSSCHNEIDERKEATINGHELMICHHOLLANDERKIFFERKIFFERKIFFERFUSAGERKLECKARABEMORINKLECKAGOODKRETCHMERREEDRIABLEGRAHAMLACROIXREVERESADLERHALEBIANMACNEILSCHRAFTHARTGROVEHALEBIANHESSHEINRICHKLECKALACROIXNEELEY07spiraltimelineofthemesandvariations71 HARTGROVEKEATINGHESSKIFFERIVERSENMACNEILMACNEILCLASSMORINGOLDSMITHRABEMORINGOODPATTERSONHEINRICHREVEREHELMICHSCHNEIDERMACNEILSCHRAFTNEELEYVINCENTREVEREGOLDSMITHBOHANDAVIDSON13waveREEDCLASSHALEBIANHEINRICHHESSIVERSEN10tearHALEBIANEXHIBITION72 BOHANBOINMORINNEELEYREED12iceSCHNEIDERVINCENTBOHANDAVIDSONGILES11blackwhitemonalisaGregorMorinTheSmileEarlyPracticeSessionsPinkopalpinksapphirediamondgoldsilverjade96cubeToddReedCubeNecklace18kyellowgoldrosegoldgreengoldplatinumpalladiumrawdiamondcubesTakashiWadaDoubleDutyNecklace18kgoldsilveronyxblackjadePropertyofGeorgeSawyer97wheelSandyBakerBrooch14kgoldCorneliaGoldsmithClockWheelNecklace18kgoldrubywhitediamondJohnIversenSlinkyNecklace22kgold-platedbronzeStevenKretchmerBroochPlatinum24kgolddiamondSusanSadlerPinwheelBrooch18kgoldplatinumdiamondgreentourmalineGeorgeSawyerZenandtheArtoftheMotorcycleBroochPlatinumyellowgoldredgoldgraygoldsterlingsilverrubberrubysapphirefusedglassbaseWilliamSchraftRaceCarPinPlatinum18kgoldonyxdiamondrubyTinaSegalThereisNoTimeLikethePresentBroochPlatinumblackpearlwatchmovementDianaVincentWheelNecklacePlatinumsterlingsilverrubbercord98keySandyBakerMaskPendant14kgoldsterlingsilverWhitneyBoinRingSterlingsilverMichaelBondanzaKey-UsPendantPlatinumlapis18kyellowgoldSouthSeapearldiamondSusanHelmichTheJourneyBroochBlackonyxdrusycrystal18kgolddiamondJoseHessMasterKeyBrooch18kgoldplatinumdiamondStevenKretchmerUntitledGoldPaulRobilottiUnlockingtheKeyNecklaceSterlingsilverrubberstainlessmeshhematitemercuryantiqueglassbulbBarbaraWestwoodPendant18kgold99puzzleMichaelBondanzaTotemRosewoodcocobololapiscoral18kcoloredgoldplatinumsterlingsilveronyxemeraldRonHartgrovePuzzleRingGoldRussianquartzcubiczirconiumSusanHelmichThatsItRedcoralbandedagatesterlingsilverCornelisHollanderRing18kyellowgold18kwhitegoldonyxScottKeatingElementaryMyDearWatsonGoldsterlingsilverjewelersloupeStevenKretchmerUntitledYellowgoldyellow-bluegoldrubydiamondPaulRobilottiAndreasMiracleBalancePlexiglascoppernickelsilverplasticwoodGeorgeSawyerPuzzledMeBrooch14kgraygoldsterlingsilver18kyellowgold22kyellowgoldpatinatedsterlingsilverTinaSegalKeytoLifeNecklace18kwhitegolddiamondneopreneBarbaraWestwoodPin18kgoldplatinum00waterMichaelGoodBracelet18kgoldSusanHelmichDownPourNecklaceAgatesterlingsilverplatinumJohnIversenRainyDayinParisEarringsPatinatedbronzeGregorMorinUndertheSeaEarringsonmagneticstandBlackjadeopaldiamondagategoldDETAILStimelineofthemesandvariations9573 ToddReedPin18kgoldsilverdrusyagatesapphirediamondbluechalcedonyPaulRobilottiMisconceptionEarringsandRingPlatinum18kpinkgoldChinesepinkpearlblackculturedpearlGeorgeSawyerSailorsMoonBrooch14kredgoldgoldshakudograygold18kyellowgoldsterlingsilverpatternedmetalworkTinaSegalOceanNecklaceSterlingsilvergreenonyxemeraldfreshwaterpearlaquamarineaventurineioliteBarbaraWestwoodNecklace18kgoldaquamarine01fightWhitneyBoinFugitiveBroochPaperPlexiglaschrome-platedsteelJaclynDavidsonChestPieceWeatheredmildsteelsterlingsilver18kgolddiamondCorneliaGoldsmithUccelloNecklace18kgoldwhitegoldtourmalinewhitediamondTahitianpearlPaulKleckaBroochPinktourmalinereopaltsavoritediamondplatinumPascalLacroixMonoLake14kyellowgold14kwhitegolddiamondAnthonyLentPuttiNecklace18kgolddiamondKeshipearlPropertyofaprivatecollectorJennierRabeMorinMothBroochGolddiamondgarnetoceanjasperAlanRevereUpUpandAwayKineticRingYellowgoldrosegoldplatinumdiamondballbearingSusanSadlerLazyCirclesintheSkyBroochPlatinumdiamondDianaVincentFlightBrooch18kwhitegoldblackrhodiumdiamondBarbaraWestwoodBroochOnyxdiamond18kgold02peekabooJaneBohanInsideOutRing18kgoldmandaringarnetwhitediamondyellowdiamondPaulKleckaBroochAmethystdiamondgoldenberylplatinumAnthonyLentInvisibleRubyLovePendant18kgoldplatinumrubydiamondPropertyofaprivatecollectorGregorMorinSwissConnectionBroochWhiteopalbrownopaldiamondgoldPaulRobilottiPeekabooBroochwithstand18kgoldsterlingsilverenamelfreshwaterpearlriverrockfeathersthreadsSusanSadlerPeekabooThisHeartsorYouBrooch18kgolddiamondWilliamSchratJack-in-the-BoxSterlingsilver18kgoldrubybluechalcedonydiamond03foldMichaelBondanzaHandcusBraceletSterlingsilverRonHartgroveConvolutionsSterlingsilverBarbaraHeinrichNecklace18kgolddiamondJohnIversenBroochOxidizednickelScottKeatingJapaneseFanPinSterlingsilvermetalfabricyellowgoldAlanRevereFoldUnoldRingYellowgoldrosegoldplatinumdiamondSusanSadlerManyMiniFoldsBroochGoldyellowsapphiregreentourmalineamethystpearlparchmentpaperGeorgeSawyerNautilus18kyellowgold14kredgoldshakudoMarkSchneiderPaperAirplanePinWhitegold18kyellowgolddiamondrubyDianaVincentFoldCuBracelet18kgolddiamond04sphereFalcherFusagerCreationBrooch24kgold22kgoldenamelrhodolitegarnetdiamondAlishanHalebianSambaPendant18kyellowgoldrosegoldoxidizedsterlingsilvercoralRonHartgroveRollingStonesPlatinumdiamondBarbaraHeinrichNecklace18kgoldJoseHessStratospherePendant18kyellowgold18kwhitegolddiamondPaulKleckaRefectingontheSpherePlatinum18kgoldTahitianpearlPascalLacroixTreasureBox14kyellowgold18kwhitegoldAdamNeeleyFioredelMareRing14kgoldTahitianpearldiamondPaulRobilottiWordsSterlingsilverrubberplasticpaintTinaSegalLacePendant18kgolddiamond05pyramidSandyBakerZaharaNecklaceSterlingsilverFalcherFusagerPyramidRetrospectiveCloisonnenamelsterlingsilver18k22k24kgolddiamondebonyancientscarabMichaelGoodRingPatinatedbronze22kbi-metalreopalAlishanHalebianTierraNovaRing18kyellowgoldsterlingsilvercoralBarbaraHeinrichEarrings18kgolddiamondJoseHessInvertedPyramidRingPlatinumcubiczirconiumCornelisHollanderIFeelDierentSterlingsilver18kgoldChristoKiferLuxorRing18kgolddiamondPaulKleckaSacredCirclesNecklaceRhodium-platedsterlingsilverKentRaibleOraclePendantMoonstonepinksapphire18kgoldSusanSadlerTutTutCollar18kgoldsterlingsilveramethystMarkSchneiderFormFunctionRing18kwhitegolddiamond06secrettreasureMichaelBondanzaInSightBraceletSterlingsilver18kgoldsapphirepetriedwoodChristoKiferYouAretheTreasureRingSterlingsilverPascalLacroixMetaphor18kyellowgoldredgoldgreengoldwhitegolddiamondAdamNeeleySaturnsRingsPendantAmmolite18kgoldgarnetyellowsapphireKentRaibleCosmicClamRingChrysacollasapphirediamondAkoyapearl18kgoldplatinumGeorgeSawyerReliquaryotheSecretPendant18kyellowgoldredgoldgraygoldsterlingsilverpatternedmetalworkkuromidocopperMarkSchneiderSecretTreasureBoxPendant14kgolddiamondebonyemeraldtopaz07spiralFalcherFusagerCelebrationIBrooch22kgold24kgoldsterlingsilvernesilverdiamondenamelMichaelGoodNeckpiecePatinatedbronze22kbi-metalSarahGrahamSpirographBrooch18kgoldoxidizedcobaltchromediamondpaperinkAlishanHalebianAkoliPendantRing18kgoldsterlingsilverTahitianblackpearlebonyScottKeatingKoruPendantNefritejade24kgolddiamondrayoncordPascalLacroixSymbiosisPendant14kwhitegoldrosegoldLindaMacNeilEssentialFlowerBroochGlassdiamond18kwhitegoldMarkPattersonAuraRing18kwhitegoldaquamarinediamondJennierRabeMorinMeditationEarringsGolddiamondgreyagateKentRaibleForearmFandangoBraceletRuby18kgold08tensionMichaelBondanzaBraceletCocoboloturquoiseDETAILScontinued74 ScottKeatingBigTopPendantOnyxquartz18kgoldrubbersterlingsilverChristoKiferMulti-microRings18kwhitegolddiamondPaulKleckaRing18kgoldStevenKretchmerRingPlatinumdiamondPascalLacroixDoubleTensionBracelet18kwhitegoldrosegolddiamondpinktourmalineLindaMacNeilLucentLinesNecklaceandEarringsGlass14kgoldAdamNeeleyRhythmBroochSpectragoldgarnetKentRaibleCapturedUniverseRingMabepearlpinksapphire18kwhitegold18kyellowgoldAlanRevereSnugRingGoldsterlingsilverrubypearlWilliamSchratItsNotYourMothersBowEarrings18kgreengolddiamondrubber09explosionCorneliaGoldsmithFireworksNecklace18kyellowgoldTahitianpearlwhitediamondMichaelGoodPendantPatinatedbronze22kbi-metal18kreopalRonHartgroveBrooch18kgoldsterlingsilverdiamondSusanHelmichAftermathBrooch18kgoldMexicanopalBrazilianagatediamondChristoKiferDiamondBurstRing18kgolddiamondJennierRabeMorinStarRingGolddiamondsapphirestarrosequartzToddReedBrooch18kgoldsilveraquamarinediamondAlanRevereKaBoooomRingGoldrubyWilliamSchratMyMissilePendantSterlingsilver18kgolddiamond10tearJaneBohanTearfulBraceletSapphiretanzaniterosequartzblackgarnetmoonstonequartzrubydiamondbriolettegoldmoirsilkPetraClassRequiemforaFishorthePiercingoftheHolyGrailSterlingsilversteelgoldrubyandaquamarineAlishanHalebianTearMeApartandIWillTearNecklace18kyellowgoldrosegoldwhitegolddiamondperidotMexicanreopalBarbaraHeinrichPendant18kgoldfreshwaterstickpearlsJoseHessTornTearPendantPlatinum-platedsilverJohnIversenBracelet18kredgold18kgreengold18kwhitegoldToddReedBroochSilvernickelMarkSchneiderTinkerTearPendantSterlingsilvergreenblackandbrownpatinagoldwhitediamondwhiteculturedpearlrubyDianaVincentTearBraceletSterlingsilverwhitetopaz11blackwhiteJaneBohanLureEarringsSterlingsilver18kwhitegold18kyellowgolddiamondpolyesterresinacrylicJaclynDavidsonChestPieceWeatheredmildsteelsterlingsilverdiamondGeofreyGilesRing18kgoldsilverpolyesterresinAlishanHalebianUprisinginBlackandWhiteSterlingsilverpolyesterresinTahitianblackpearlfreshwaterpearlcoralmother-of-pearlRonHartgroveIKONPendant18kgoldsterlingsilverpolyesterresinJoseHessStratosphereRingPolyesterresinsterlingsilverwhitediamondblackdiamondJohnIversenJaxsEarringsSterlingsilverrhodium-platedsterlingsilverpolyesterresinLindaMacNeilNeckCollarGold-platedbrasspolyesterresinacrylicclearglassGregorMorinUntitledSilverpolyesterresindiamondJennierRabeMorinYingandYangRingSilverdiamondpolyesterresinToddReedRingsSteelwirepolyesterresin12iceJaneBohanCrackedIcePendantSterlingsilver18kgoldquartzovalgrossulargarnetWhitneyBoinBroochPlexiglaschrome-platedsteelPetraClassBrooch22kgold18kgoldquartzCorneliaGoldsmithGlacierRing18kwhitegold18kyellowgoldaquamarinewhitediamondbluediamondMichaelGoodPendantPatinatedbronzepearlBarbaraHeinrichBrooch18kgolddiamondScottKeatingPhantomIceRingSterlingsilverphantomquartzwhitesapphireChristoKiferMeltingIceCubePendantFinesilver18kgolddiamondLindaMacNeilBrilliantPerilBroochGlassrhodium-platedgoldGregorMorinIcemanSilveropalAdamNeeleyPolarIcePendant14kwhitegolddiamondMarkPattersonRing18krosegoldquartzJennierRabeMorinIceChimesEarringsSilverdiamondaquamarineAlanRevereFrozeninTimeRingSterlingsilvergoldrubyMarkSchneiderBigBiteRockcrystalsterlingsilverbrownpatina18kgoldWilliamSchratGlobalWarmingthePolarBearsPendant18kgoldsterlingsilverdiamondMexicanopalroughcrystal13waveJaneBohanSurfboardBroochSterlingsilver18kgoldbluediamondgreenchalcedonycabochonJaclynDavidsonChestPieceMildsteelgoldCorneliaGoldsmithLaMerRing18kyellowgoldtourmalinewhitediamondbluediamondSusanHelmichTidalWavePendantTurquoisecarvingsterlingsilver18kgoldKeshipearlwithagatebaseLindaMacNeilDazzleNecklaceGlassrhodium-platedwhitegolddiamondrubyAdamNeeleyCaptivateBroochGoldTahitianpearlAlanRevereBreakerRingSterlingsilverpearlDianaVincentWaveNecklaceSterlingsilverdiamondEXPLOSIONbyWILLIAMSCHRAFT75 FOLDbyBARBARAHEINRICHTeAmericanGemradeAssociationwouldliketocongratulatetheAJDConthe25thanniversaryexhibitionandfortirelesslysupportingandpromotingtheuseofcoloredgemstonesandculturedpearlscreativelyinAmericanjewelrydesign.76 WeoferourcongratulationsandgratitudetotheAJDCorinspiringjewelrydesignersorthepast25years.77 78 PYRAMIDbyPAULKLECKATHANKSManypeopledeservethanksforthisexhibitionandcatalogmostespeciallyLindaMacNeilwhohadthevisionforthisexhibitionandworkedtirelesslyandwithgreatexpertiseanddedicationtowardsndingtheperfectvenuefortheAmericanJewelryDesignCounciljewelrycollection.Weowemuchgratitudetoherandarethankfulforherwillingnesstomakethisexhibitionanditsaccompanyingcatalogapriorityforthelastsixmonths.LindawassupportedbyMarylouiseSirignanoLugoschAJDCsdedicatedexecutivedirector.AttheForbesGalleriesourthanksareduerstandforemosttoourcuratorBonnieKirschstein.HerenthusiasmandprofessionalguidancesupportedbycuratorialassistantCarlyNalvenwasawlessfromselectingtheworksandcatalogingthemtomountingthemintheexhibition.WealsothankJohannaGoldfeldfordesigningthegraphicsfortheexhibitionandRackPinionforcreatingthebeautifulmounts.WeextendmanythankstotheentireForbesteamwhoworkedbehindthescenesanddeservegreatcredit.OurspecialgratitudegoestotheForbesfamilywhoselong-standingdedicationtotheartsoverthegenerationsisequaltononeandtoMr.ChristopherForbesViceChairmanforgenerouslyinvitingtheAmericanJewelryDesignCouncilintothefabulousForbesGalleriesinNewYorkCityfortheirconcludingshow.ToKatjaMaasourcreativeandtalentedgraphicdesignerIgivemyprofoundthanksonbehalfoftheAJDC.Sheembracedthecreationofthiscatalogwithherimmenseartisticspiritandjoyfulnessandexceededourhighestexpectationsineverywaypossiblewhilestayingwithinourbudgetanddeadlines.ToLindaOrlickAriGoldsteinandKristenLawlerfromGoldsteinCommunicationswearedeeplythankfulfortheirguidanceprofessionaladviceandgreatexpertiseinfundraisingandpublicrelations.ToMartheLeVanweareverythankfulforgivingavoicetocontemporaryjewelrythroughherwritingforthiscatalogthusenablingawideraudiencetoexperienceandunderstandtheworkinmoredepth.Toallofoursponsorswhosogenerouslysupportedusinmakingthisexhibitionandcatalogpossiblewegiveourheartfeltthanks.Theyallowedustopullthesetreasuredpiecesofartjewelryoutofthedarknessofsafesandintothelightofthisexhibition.FinallymymostprofoundthanksareduetotheartistsmyAJDCfriends.YouindividuallyandcollectivelyhavemademanysacricestopromotetheartofjewelrydesignandtoelevateAmericanartjewelrytogreaterstandards.Allofthiswouldnotbepossiblewithoutthesupportofourspousesandfamilies.Iamgratefultobeoneofyou.79fromBarbaraHeinrichAJDCpresident FOLDbyMICHAELBONDANZA DesignedandeditedbyKatjaMaasDesignNewYorkScotlandPrintedinCanadabyFriesensCorporation.WHEELbySANDRABAKERFOLDBYJOHNIVERSENAJDC.ORGEveryyearanewthemeispresentedtoourmembers.Theworksitinspiresarefeaturedonourwebsiteandareexhibitedingalleriesaroundthecountry.WeencourageyoutosupporttheworkoftheAJDCbyfollowingyourpassionasourmembersdo.82 25